Stevie is not only one of the references of extreme dry tooling. The autor of the first M10 (X Files), and M11 (The Empire Strikes back), is also one of the strongest personalities of the internacional scene. He's not afraid to talk about what he thinks of the last generation of dry tooling climbing. He is definitely one of the most complete climbers in the world, beeing able to climb M11 as well as onsighting 8a+ routes.
 

  What do you think about Mission Impossible?
  This route is a bit more powerful than the Empire but not as sustained, it is ideally suited to me as I am very powerful and cannot concentrate for a long time.

  Do you think it is the hardest route in the world?
This route is really only hard in a physical sense. It is grade M11 or M10+ like Empire. But for me the grades do not exist, they are only an indication and a guide

 What are the main diferences between Empire end Mission Impossible?
  Empire has five pitches and is a complete route with much commitment, Mission is really 12 meters of chipped rock with good protection. Empire has a very dangerous third Pitch grade 7 but with no protection which has not been repeated, for most climbers (not all) this might be the hardest pitch.

  What do you think about the international dry-tooling evolution?
  Firstly it should be called Mixed climbing and it is a long story in Britain, however the way some people are and drilling routes is against my ethic. Some of my routes have been destroyed OO9 extra pegs and chipping. This can cause trouble. The extra protection on X Files has pissed me off as its a world class route and of course this is being done by leading climbers. Will Gadd was the first to add a peg to X Files and then couldnt do it. Obviously if that went on, the climb is ruined.

  My interest is using the techniques to make good long routes. I like short routes but really long routes with exposure are better . In the future it might go off at a tangent and become a subsport, no ice, summer and with its own cliffs. But thats not for me. Already this is happening for a few in Italy , Slovenia, France.

  Can we look forward seeing M 12 or M13 routes in the future?
  Yes M12 is possible, it has been possible for a few years but its really only possible for the fittest. Realistically I could have done one last August when I onsighted 8a+ but this is the wrong time of year, in the winter I have not been super fit.

  What do you think about ice climbing competitions?
  Basically they are shit, I did a few and won some money as did Laurence. If they are supposed to convey the commitment of a hard route they fail if they are representing mixed bouldering then they succeed. I dont think top roping is very interesting, it allows strange people to win. Anyway without drug testing the all thing is unfair

  Why don't you take part on it?
  I earn more money snow boarding and when the ice is good I go ice climbing. However I saw some great phisical performances at one comp but you could say that was wasted he could have done that on a route and had a good first ascent.

  What are you trying now? Will you go this spring to the Himalayas?
  I was trying a project in France M12? I have permission to go rock climbing from my sponsors so maybe I will get a good standard. A little snowboarding in the Himalayas for sure. Less work more freedom.

  Jordi Pastor

<Página anterior

Noticias relacionadas

Haston repite Mission Imposible 23.02.01
Tempestad sobre Glencoe 24.01.01 
Primer M10+ o M11 22.02.00